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Leaving the residence in the morning, already on the way to the metro, one would think that the first match of the day is Argentina - Mexico (which is played at 10pm): everywhere you can see fans from these two countries, especially Mexicans. I walk around the center, in the historic Souq Waqif and in the new (beautiful) district of Mshreirb and I still meet lots of them, even a group singing "Cielito Lindo". Of course, they applaud each other, no one has to keep them separated, not a policeman is seen around. I also see again the two Irish girls twinned with Iran.
Going towards the subway to the stadium, one encounters the "green tide" of Saudi Arabian fans, singing along. One carries portraits of the King and Prince bin Salman. Some Mexicans camouflage themselves among them (same colors), they are everywhere. Even if fewer than the Iranians, there are also quite a few women (Saudis, I mean) with outfits that would not be allowed in their homeland (but I think the same can be said of many men, in shorts). I also meet two middle-aged Finnish ladies: Finns are everywhere too, even at events where they are not represented.
Only when you leave the metro you realize that there are also some Poles. The stadium is in a university citadel, Education City, which also hosts the local branches of Texas A&M and of the French HEC. Along the way, there are students with signs with various fu facts about their campus: the only one that sticks with me is that they have a 1600-meter refrigerated track. I arrive at the check queue around 3.10 pm: this time the queue moves quickly, the problem will be the checks. First I have to wait a long time for them to finish with those before me, a Saudi family of five, then, when it's my turn, they empty my entire backpack, then put back in even what was originally outside and leaf through all my books and magazines, losing my mark, saying it's for my own safety.
Eventually I get through. There are still stands offering flags, but only Polish ones remained. This time I'm recognizable as Italian, since I'm wearing the 2006 victory shirt: I meet an Italian who wants to take a picture with me, and then disappears immediately afterwards, and a Saudi who yells "Go Inter!" (in Italian) at me. Needless to say, I appreciated much more the latter. The stadium can only be seen at the end of the way: the first impression is that it looks like an American stadium. Like yesterday's one, however, it doesn't have escalators: I would have expected it from such modern stadiums.
I arrive at my seat around 12.40. Also today the stadium will fill up only at the last moment (compared to yesterday, however, there will be fewer people who enter once the match has started). The second deck (out of three), the one where I am, will be the one where they will remain most empty seats, and in particular my sector: in my row half of the seats will remain empty. A FIFA statement "against all discrimination" is read, including that for sexual orientation. Then it's time for the anthems: first you hear someone singing the Polish one, then the Saudi one will be heard deafeningly. They don't read the lineups: yesterday I thought they had given them before my arrival.
We start: Saudi Arabia attacks on my side. Boos when the Poles have the ball, enthusiasm when the Saudis try to press. After a few minutes n. 23 of Saudi Arabia dribbles three opponents and shoots from the edge of the area, challenging Szczesny: it will be the greens' best chance until almost the end of the first half. Soon after, I'll start to feel a cold wind on my legs, which will get worse and worse, also on the rest of my body. I already had such an experience three years ago. I am thankful I have left the jacket in the backpack: I try to resist for a while, then I put it on.
It goes on with Saudi Arabia trying to attack, but showing uncertainties in defense, which allows the Poles to become dangerous. Shortly after half an hour there is a long break due to an injury to a Saudi: the third deck begins to make the wave, which then is extended to the whole stadium. As soon as play resumed, Lewandowski gets past the goalkeeper: he is unable to shoot, but manages to give it back to Zielinski, who scores. The Poles rejoice, showing that they are not so few after all. In particular, a girl behind me goes wild, who has the colors of Poland, but doesn't look like a Pole (and cheers in English): given the people around her, she is presumably a Qatari with a Polish mother. The Saudis (I would say "the locals", they look so much like the home team) come to life again in the 45th minute when one of their players falls in the area: live (and I was close) it seems like a light contact, but the VAR give the penalty. They show the images (when will they do the same in Italy?) and actually there was a foul. Szczesny saves the penalty (and it wasn't very difficult) and then also pushes back the second shot (and this was really difficult).
At halftime I take advantage of being close to the exit to take a tour inside. I avoid bathrooms and bars, too much queue. Back in the stadium, it feels like entering a fridge: I regret coming in shorts and sandals. Curiously, at halftime the VIP empties, and it will fill up again only after the second half has begun for a while. It starts again with Saudi Arabia who attack massively and have three chances in the first minutes, but as time goes by both the players and the attendance are discouraged: the stadium becomes more and more silent while it is Poland that becomes dangerous. Within two minutes, first Milik takes the crossbar, then Lewandowski the post. In the 78th minute the Saudis lose the ball in defense and Lewandowski finds himself alone before the goalkeeper and doesn't miss: 2-0. The attendance begins to displace, the Saudis try to react, but the best opportunity will still come from Poland, with Lewandowski dribbling two opponents and finding himself alone in the area, but the goalkeeper comes out and deflects, with a defender who will then save on the line.
It ends 2-0. At the exit there are some collectors looking for used tickets: even if I wanted to, I couldn't help them, my ticket is electronic (indeed, I thought they were all like that, then I saw some paper tickets). I meet a group that evidently bought the same package as me, since they're talking about going to see Germany-Spain and Brazil-Switzerland. They are dressed like Arabs, but they don't look or speak like Saudis, in fact I discover that they are from Newcastle. The return trip is much quieter than the outward one: some Poles try and cheer, but are booed by the majority. Someone shouts "cheating", it is not clear why. Big crowd at the entrance to the metro, I'm also a little scared, at one stop there will even be a hint of a fight (between Saudis).
And tomorrow I have two matches ahead of me.
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