World Cup Qatar 2022: Brazil - Switzerland (28-11-2022)

 It's Brazil Day. It can be seen from the morning: many green and gold shirts around. I start the day with a trip to the FIFA Fan Festival, where I see some footage of Cameroon-Serbia, which the commentators will end up calling "probably the best MATCH so far". So I think back that one disadvantage of watching live events is that you can watch fewer races than you would on TV. Of course, however, that applies if you have nothing else to do at home: if I hadn't come here, I wouldn't have seen that match anyway because I would have been working. I then pass by Souq Waqif, where you can mostly see Ecuadorians singing and celebrating their team.

I start heading towards the stadium around 5.30: I think I have a good margin. Already at the entrance to the metro you can see the green-gold tide. I don't know how many of these are actually Brazilians, but definitely a minority. There's a crowd in the station, there's also a lot of police, like we have never been seen before. and the same will then be around the stadium (let's make it clear, nothing comparable to an Italian league match, even if not a risky one). They encourage us to enter the trains up to the capacity limit: I thought they would even push us, but then they don't (and in any case we are less crammed than in Rome at rush hour).

I leave the metro shortly after 8pm and the stadium doesn't seem that far away, so I think that finally, for once, I won't enter at the last minute. I was wrong. Stadium 974 (from the country's telephone code, therefore in Italy it would be Stadium 39) is temporary: it will be dismantled after the World Cup (they told the same of all stadiums, before the Cup was awarded to them) and it shows: it is full of pipes and containers in plain sight. Arriving at the check, at each gate they tell you to go to the next one, despite the fact that there are plenty of room; the long coils they had prepared are filled to no more than a quarter. Needless to say, they make us go in the opposite direction of my gate. When they finally let us in, the queue runs fast, I still think I have a good margin. But here the problems begin: they empty my rucksack, leaf through my books and tell me that I have to leave a few things in the deposit: some souvenirs that I had bought during the day (and it may make sense), but also the books and magazine La Settimana Enigmistica (Puzzle Week). La Settimana Enigmistica! At least I convince them to leave me the binoculars, pointing out that they are needed to watch the match (then I won't use them). And they also only opened one pocket, guess if they'd opened the other too.

I was desperate fearing that the deposit was on the opposite side, but they reassure me that I'll be quick and I won't have to queue again. Actually the deposit is closer than feared, there is no queue and they are very kind. The problem will be on the way back: first it takes me a while to convince them not to let me stand in line again (however short, almost everyone had already entered), then they open the backpack again, also the other pocket, and look at some things with suspicion (including binoculars). I'm starting to fear they'll make me go back to the warehouse and I think it's time I'll react badly and risk to be arrested.

Instead they let me through, but it's 6.45 pm and my gate is on the other side. I also make it worse going to the wrong one: I was convinced that mine was 4, instead it was 5. Then there are four flights of stairs to climb: I arrive exhausted. I'm still in the hallways when I hear the anthems playing and the Brazilian one being sung, and I still have to go to the bathroom. My seat is quite high, and I have to make my way through 16 seats that are almost all full, but I manage to get there just before kick-off. The regret remains of never having seen all the preliminaries of a match.

I'm about halfway into the second deck (out of two). It will continue to fill up even after the match has started, but some empty seats will remain, especially in the first ring, but also a bit in my sector (the seat on my left will also remain empty). Eventually they will announce about 43,000 spectators, which means that the stadium has more or less the same capacity as the first two I saw: it seemed bigger to me. You can see some red-crossed patches in the green-gold tide, especially in the first deck. Throughout the match, only Brazilian cheering will be heard: the Swiss will be seen singing and waving their flags, but they will always be overwhelmed

In the first half, Brazil attacks to my side. Many stand up when they approach the opponent's area, which rarely happens in the first half: they will take the first shot on goal in the 26th minute (against none of the opponents anyway) At halftime they will say that the Swiss goalkeeper will have made two "goal preventions", which I didn't understand if it's a different concept from "saves" and, if so, what the difference is. The stats they give in these World Cups are a bit strange. At halftime I don't think about moving: I'm still tired from the finish line. There's a singer performing: I see him on the screen, but I can't figure out where he is physically.

Play resumes, and Brazil takes a risk, with the ball remaining in his area for a while, without the Swiss being able to shoot. In the 10th minute Richarlison misses a catch from a few steps away. In the 22nd minute Rodrygo scores with a nice diagonal shot, but after two minutes of celebrations, on the pitch and in the stands, with the ball already in midfield, we realize that there is a VAR control. The goal was disallowed for offside, but the Swiss almost restarted from midfield: if I understand correctly, the offside was in a previous pass, not in the last. With about ten minutes to go, you see people starting to leave: it really seems incomprehensible to me, in such an important match and still balanced. In fact, the goals arrive shortly after, with Casimiro who takes advantage of a small space and slips into the corner. The Swiss are unable to react: the last minutes are a monologue, on the pitch as in the stands.

At the exit I have to go against the tide to get to the deposit, also fearing not to find it, having come out from a different point than the entrance. In the end I find it quite easily and immediately recover my stuff, but then I have to go back around in the opposite direction to get to the metro. There is a 20-minute queue to enter the metro: you pass the time with two folk shows, one with Arab swordsmen and one with Kenyan dances.

We have come to the end. When and where will be next time? At the next World Cup, to see five games I would have to stop for a couple of weeks or make long journeys. In any case, for the first time I leave a stadium sure that I will never go back, since in a few months it will no longer be there (ok, those who visited the Eiffel Tower in 1889 also said it...).

World Cup Qatar 2022: Japan - Costa Rica and Spain - Germany (27-11-2022)

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Today is the big day: for the first time in my life I will be watching two top-level football matches on the same day. In fact, I also believe that the last time I watched two football matches on the same day was in my high school days. We start with Japan-Costarica, in the same stadium as Wales-Iran. I leave the residence later than expected: to confirm how late I am at the metro station, I hardly see anyone with symbols of the two teams, will they all be there already? Upon arrival, I will see someone, especially from Japan. Already during the journey I seriously fear seeing the match started, when I arrive and see the queue to enter the fear becomes almost a certainty. Instead the queue flows more rapidly: although it was longer it takes me the same time as the day before yesterday, perhaps slightly less. At the check they still make me open all the compartments of my backpack (despite having x-rayed it), but they don't take anything out, let alone touch the magazines.

They are on the opposite side compared to two days ago, slightly closer to the entrance, and in the second deck (they are low decks, don't think of those of San Siro stadium in Milan). I don't see a corner flag as it is covered by a TV stand, but I won't miss anything: there won't be any corners from there. I get inside at 12.54 when the anthems are about to play: I sit in the first available seat and then, after the anthems, I go to my seat. The Japanese anthem is played first, but you don't hear it sung, even if the Japanese fans are a clear majority (and no, it's not without lyrics, I checked), then the Costa Rican anthem, and you hear it sung, the finale very loud.

To my left is a Frenchman who also occupies a good part of my seat, to my right a very passionate Japanese fan, with two flags in her hair: when she yells loudly she puts her hand to her mouth,or apologizes. I tell her not to worry: it's normal for a fan to scream! She always looks at her cell phone, I think he takes selfies all the time. I also notice that in my row I am the one who looks at his mobile the least (which is not common). I have a lot of time to observe my neighbors (and also my cell phone) because absolutely nothing happens on the pitch: in the whole first half, two unsuccessful crosses and a pushed back shot back Japan, a shot wide for Costa Rica. This is confirmed by the statistics for the first half: 0 shots on goal. I fervently hoped that Japan would score to see my neighbour's reaction.

At halftime I talk to the neighbour (in the picture) and I find out that she is actually a Filipina. She tells me that she loves Japanese culture very much. Also at the exit you will see many fans of Japan who do not look like Japanese, I will also meet an Italian family where the daughters had the colors of Costa Rica, the father of Japan (the mother none).

In the second half Japan starts strong and already after a minute challenges Navas (the only player of the two teams that I am able to recognize, also for his position). They almost always attack, but with poor results: towards half the time they have two free-kicks from the edge, but one ends up wide, the other on the wall. 10' from the end, a Costa Rican (whose name, I'll discover later, is Fuller) receives the ball on the edge of the area and overtakes the goalkeeper with a lob. The Costa Ricans make themselves heard, the Japanese remain silent for the rest of the game: it will be the Central Americans (if I understand correctly) who ironically shout "Nippon". In additional time the Asians have two chances, the best of the match, but it ends 1-0. At the exit, I meet a group of Costa Ricans who are singing mocking chants towards the Japanese: "Where are the Japanese? They went to... (a word I didn't understand)

I stop to eat at the mall, then I come back after a long walk to get to the subway: it would be opposite, but they force you to take it from the side of the stadium. I go out again around 7.15pm : the idea was to stop at the FIFA Fan Festival, maybe eat (but I'm not hungry) and then take the shuttle to the stadium. However, I'm late because the taxi finds traffic: so I decide to stop at the festival, but I can't find the buses at the start and I'm forced to get in, get out again and walk a long way. Qataris are specialists in making you take very long routes to places that are just a few meters away as the crow flies: I had already noticed this three years ago. I'm seriously afraid I won't make it by the start of the game.

At the end I take the bus around 8.30: it's almost empty, there were very few left to take it. On the screen it shows that we expects to arrive around 9.15, so I think I should make it, maybe by little. We arrive around 9.20 and the stadium can be seen nearby, so I think it's done. Even here, however, the distance as the crow flies is one thing, the one to actually do is another: to enter you will have to go almost half a round around the stadium. Stadium that has the shape of a Bedouin tent: from the outside it looks more like a fair than a stadium, from the inside it's very beautiful, but it always gives that impression. The checks go fast, I hope to get in soon because I'm at gate 18, which if this stadium was like the others it would be close to the entrance. Instead it's completely on the opposite side, and the gates are also spaced out: I'm afraid I won't make it for the kickoff again. I'm still in the corridors when I hear play the German anthem. I don't hear sing it, but I try to sing it myself. The Spanish one, which no one can sing (it's without lyrics) has already been played.

I make it in just before kick-off. I am in the first row of the upper half of the first deck (out of three). The stadium is much bigger than the others (almost 69,000 are present, as they will announce in the second half) and completely full, even if the last ones will enter once the game has begun. In my row there are four fans of Germany and two of Spain, but none are from their respective countries: those on my left looked German, but they are Americans. Today's lesson is that to support a national team you don't necessarily have to be from that country. we, used to being represented in big events (but for Italy not so much anymore..), don't realize it, and fake news like the one about fake fans are spread. It's not clear which fans are more, also because the colors are similar, but those of Spain will be heard more.

Here we go: in the first half, Germany attacks to my side. An opportunity for each side in the first 10': shot deflected off the crossbar for Spain, counter-attack stopped by the goalkeeper, coming out for Germany. Shortly after half an hour Spain misses an incredible goal, but it was offside. In the 39th minute Rudiger scores with a header following the development of a free-kick: the German fans are exultant, but the Spaniards will feel much more excited when it is disallowed for offside after VAR. I don't move during the break, even though I'm close to the exit: so I don't have to make way in the line: the passage is narrow. They turn off the lights and tell us to turn on the cell phone flashlights, to give the impression of a starry sky. Play resume, and in the 17th minute Morata receives the ball in the small area and scores. Immediately after, Asensio misses the doubling. Germany attacks in a disorderly way, making mistakes by taking risks on the counterattack: you can hear some chorus of their fans, who until now had only made themselves heard after the disallowed goal. In the end they equalized with a substitute striker, who I had never heard of, named Fuellkrug.

It ends 1-1. At the exit, another round around the stadium to take the shuttle, which is not full this time either (there are more people going in other directions). I see a lot of people heading towards the parking lots, which means that most of the spectators were locals, unless they had rented cars. The bus finds traffic: we arrive at the Fan Festival around 2am.

World Cup Qatar 2022: Poland - Saudi Arabia (26-11-2022)

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Leaving the residence in the morning, already on the way to the metro, one would think that the first match of the day is Argentina - Mexico (which is played at 10pm): everywhere you can see fans from these two countries, especially Mexicans. I walk around the center, in the historic Souq Waqif and in the new (beautiful) district of Mshreirb and I still meet lots of them, even a group singing "Cielito Lindo". Of course, they applaud each other, no one has to keep them separated, not a policeman is seen around. I also see again the two Irish girls twinned with Iran.

Going towards the subway to the stadium, one encounters the "green tide" of Saudi Arabian fans, singing along. One carries portraits of the King and Prince bin Salman. Some Mexicans camouflage themselves among them (same colors), they are everywhere. Even if fewer than the Iranians, there are also quite a few women (Saudis, I mean) with outfits that would not be allowed in their homeland (but I think the same can be said of many men, in shorts). I also meet two middle-aged Finnish ladies: Finns are everywhere too, even at events where they are not represented.

Only when you leave the metro you realize that there are also some Poles. The stadium is in a university citadel, Education City, which also hosts the local branches of Texas A&M and of the French HEC. Along the way, there are students with signs with various fu facts about their campus: the only one that sticks with me is that they have a 1600-meter refrigerated track. I arrive at the check queue around 3.10 pm: this time the queue moves quickly, the problem will be the checks. First I have to wait a long time for them to finish with those before me, a Saudi family of five, then, when it's my turn, they empty my entire backpack, then put back in even what was originally outside and leaf through all my books and magazines, losing my mark, saying it's for my own safety.

Eventually I get through. There are still stands offering flags, but only Polish ones remained. This time I'm recognizable as Italian, since I'm wearing the 2006 victory shirt: I meet an Italian who wants to take a picture with me, and then disappears immediately afterwards, and a Saudi who yells "Go Inter!" (in Italian) at me. Needless to say, I appreciated much more the latter. The stadium can only be seen at the end of the way: the first impression is that it looks like an American stadium. Like yesterday's one, however, it doesn't have escalators: I would have expected it from such modern stadiums.

I arrive at my seat around 12.40. Also today the stadium will fill up only at the last moment (compared to yesterday, however, there will be fewer people who enter once the match has started). The second deck (out of three), the one where I am, will be the one where they will remain most empty seats, and in particular my sector: in my row half of the seats will remain empty. A FIFA statement "against all discrimination" is read, including that for sexual orientation. Then it's time for the anthems: first you hear someone singing the Polish one, then the Saudi one will be heard deafeningly. They don't read the lineups: yesterday I thought they had given them before my arrival.

We start: Saudi Arabia attacks on my side. Boos when the Poles have the ball, enthusiasm when the Saudis try to press. After a few minutes n. 23 of Saudi Arabia dribbles three opponents and shoots from the edge of the area, challenging Szczesny: it will be the greens' best chance until almost the end of the first half. Soon after, I'll start to feel a cold wind on my legs, which will get worse and worse, also on the rest of my body. I already had such an experience three years ago. I am thankful I have left the jacket in the backpack: I try to resist for a while, then I put it on.

It goes on with Saudi Arabia trying to attack, but showing uncertainties in defense, which allows the Poles to become dangerous. Shortly after half an hour there is a long break due to an injury to a Saudi: the third deck begins to make the wave, which then is extended to the whole stadium. As soon as play resumed, Lewandowski gets past the goalkeeper: he is unable to shoot, but manages to give it back to Zielinski, who scores. The Poles rejoice, showing that they are not so few after all. In particular, a girl behind me goes wild, who has the colors of Poland, but doesn't look like a Pole (and cheers in English): given the people around her, she is presumably a Qatari with a Polish mother. The Saudis (I would say "the locals", they look so much like the home team) come to life again in the 45th minute when one of their players falls in the area: live (and I was close) it seems like a light contact, but the VAR give the penalty. They show the images (when will they do the same in Italy?) and actually there was a foul. Szczesny saves the penalty (and it wasn't very difficult) and then also pushes back the second shot (and this was really difficult).

At halftime I take advantage of being close to the exit to take a tour inside. I avoid bathrooms and bars, too much queue. Back in the stadium, it feels like entering a fridge: I regret coming in shorts and sandals. Curiously, at halftime the VIP empties, and it will fill up again only after the second half has begun for a while. It starts again with Saudi Arabia who attack massively and have three chances in the first minutes, but as time goes by both the players and the attendance are discouraged: the stadium becomes more and more silent while it is Poland that becomes dangerous. Within two minutes, first Milik takes the crossbar, then Lewandowski the post. In the 78th minute the Saudis lose the ball in defense and Lewandowski finds himself alone before the goalkeeper and doesn't miss: 2-0. The attendance begins to displace, the Saudis try to react, but the best opportunity will still come from Poland, with Lewandowski dribbling two opponents and finding himself alone in the area, but the goalkeeper comes out and deflects, with a defender who will then save on the line.

It ends 2-0. At the exit there are some collectors looking for used tickets: even if I wanted to, I couldn't help them, my ticket is electronic (indeed, I thought they were all like that, then I saw some paper tickets). I meet a group that evidently bought the same package as me, since they're talking about going to see Germany-Spain and Brazil-Switzerland. They are dressed like Arabs, but they don't look or speak like Saudis, in fact I discover that they are from Newcastle. The return trip is much quieter than the outward one: some Poles try and cheer, but are booed by the majority. Someone shouts "cheating", it is not clear why. Big crowd at the entrance to the metro, I'm also a little scared, at one stop there will even be a hint of a fight (between Saudis).

And tomorrow I have two matches ahead of me.